I keep falling down and failing at surfing. My glasses are swimming in the ocean

I keep falling down and failing at surfing. My glasses are swimming in the ocean

Today, I woke up a little after 10:00 in the morning. I took a shower as usual and headed to the beach.

I felt very tired, probably from yesterday’s surfing. I didn’t sleep well, and being a hostel, when someone leaves early in the morning, I tend to wake up the same way. So I can’t help but to wake up.



Go to Canggu Beach and read a book

Heading to Canggu Beach. Immediately, I decided to eat nasi goreng. It was around noon, so I ordered nasi goreng chicken from the lady yesterday. This time, there was chicken on the menu, so I was able to order that.

It is really delicious with ketchup manis. I was very happy to be able to eat nasi goreng on the beach.



Then I sat in the shade nearby and read for about 2 hours straight, reading chapter 2 of a book called Outliers. Today I learned about the 10,000 hour rule. It means that no matter what you do, if you put in 10000 hours in everything you do, you will become a professional. And Bill Gates, the programmer who created Java, and all kinds of people were born in or near 1955.



So it seems that the “time” is also great luck. They are very successful because of a combination of great luck. That is why I learned that it is very important to create that “opportunity”. When I was reading the book, I was checking out a lot of waves, and apparently the sunlight is strong during the day, which creates a wind called onshore, which makes the waves not stand up well.



The waves finally started to build up, so I went to yesterday’s location

About 2:30 in the evening, the waves finally started to form a little bit, so I decided to go to yesterday’s school location. When I went to the school, familiar members came to talk to me. I shake hands with each of them. After that, I sat down on a chair and Yogi, the instructor, told me a lot about my surfing. Apparently I have good balance, but my lack of arm muscles makes me tired quickly and I don’t seem to be paddling well. In fact, I was. I have too few muscles and get tired easily. So I decided to work out at the gym from now on.

Everyone took me in like family, even the instructor Yogi and the leader guy who runs the place, and I really enjoyed my time there. While we were watching the waves, Yogi shared a lot of trivia with me. As expected, he had apparently been surfing since he was 7 years old and was a real professional. I think that’s really amazing. I think if I had a beach near my house and an environment where I could surf, I would be able to improve even if I didn’t want to.



And now it’s time to surf alone

I paid 500 rupiah and decided to enjoy two hours of surfing. The person running the operation said, “Have fun! And be careful not to lose your sunglasses!” And. So I was able to rent swimsuits, and I was off to the ocean by myself! The ocean is beautiful today! The waves are great!




A setback in surfing, which I thought was fun

It was nice to go to the beach, but I had no idea how to surf because it was to surf alone. Of course, I knew I would do as I had learned yesterday, but I had to ride the waves so that when they came, I would be at the same speed as the waves. So I have to paddle with my arms, which requires a lot of strength, and maybe it’s because my arms are too thin and few muscular, so I can’t ride the waves well. When I get good speed and try to stand up, my arms shake, probably because of the muscle pain, and I cannot stand up as I want to.

So, I was always late for the wave. I ended up surfing for about an hour and a half, but I couldn’t surf at all. But I think it’s a great thing that I was able to experience a setback for me. It was really a series of setbacks. I didn’t even know which wave to ride, and when I was waiting, which direction to stand by. Besides, there were so many people that we almost bumped into each other. So it was very important to find a spot, and you always had to be on the move in search of waves. That’s why it was really hard and difficult. I thought surfing was harder than I thought.

First of all, I don’t have “arm muscles,” the basic physical strength. So, just a little bit of paddling makes me tired quickly. And the problem is, when a wave comes, I have to paddle by hand at the same time and stand up right away, but at that time, my arm muscles are exhausted and I have no strength left. I think this is a very big problem.



Lost my’s glasses

Then I fell off my surfboard when a big wave came in and I lost my glasses at the same time. My glasses were also swallowed by the wave. This was a really big problem. But I had no choice, so I quickly switched to surfing. In hindsight, my glasses were much more important than surfing, so I felt I had really brew it.

Then I kept surfing and got seasick because I felt like a washing machine so many times. Plus I got headaches from lifting my head up all the time.



So I got very tired and decided to stop surfing.

When I told the instructor that I had lost my glasses, he was really sorry. He said, “I’m so sorry. But at the time, I was more shocked by the fact that I couldn’t surf a wave and my lack of muscle mass. I had a headache, so I got some water and sat under a parasol on the beach for a long time. But still, surfing is so physically demanding. You get tired really quickly. And it requires a tremendous amount of muscle. This was what I really witnessed.

I think it was a really big accomplishment for me to know what it takes to surf. So, I would like to build up my muscle strength thoroughly in Japan or somewhere else, and next time I go to Bali, I would like to strengthen my arm muscles well before I try surfing.



Yogi also told me that it is good to surf on Saturday mornings, and since they seem to be open early in the morning, I thought I would definitely try it. I thought.




At night, I was very tired, so I rested in bed

The management asked me if I would like to see the sunset. But I said “Yes, I think the sunset on the ocean is very beautiful. But I was really hungry, so I decided to cut out early this time and have dinner.”



Then I went to the Indonesian restaurant that I usually go to and had dinner there. Today, I decided to have rice with coconut powder or satay, which Tony had taught me. It was very tasty.

Today’s sunset was great. On the way back to the hostel from the restaurant, I took some pictures.

After returning to the hostel, I thought about reading a book or writing in my journal, but apparently my head was still drunk and I had no motivation to do so. Besides, I was really tired and wanted to sleep. So I decided to take a break in bed today.