Surfing after relaxing on the beach!

Surfing after relaxing on the beach!

Today, I eat breakfast at the hostel again. Once again, I think that hostel breakfasts are really the best. It is buffet style, and although there is not that much variety, it is enough to provide a nutritious breakfast. There are no animal products at all, it’s a vegan menu, but everything is really delicious.

Today, I’m eating fruit with coconut flour, then vegetables, black, orange, and coconut bread with homemade cream cheese and jam. Really, it’s unbelievably delicious. I think it would be really great if I could have such a delicious meal every time. Like that, I recharge my body and take a two-hour nap.




Let’s go to the beach!

Then, I go to the beach! The time was also 1pm, so I decided to surf for just 2 hours today. So after going to the beach, I decided to read a book. I’ve been reading a book lately called “Good vibes, good life”. Really, this book is so incredibly wonderful that I think everyone should read it. Today I learned that people who are sarcastic are actually revealing about themselves. It seems that people who are always critical or sarcastic are saying, “My life is not going really well, I am insecure, unstable, I have a lot of problems, and I am lonely.” Because by criticizing others like that, they are trying to stabilize themselves.

Well, that’s what I learned. And you should immediately distance yourself from people who are sarcastic.

And if you want to be positive, you should go to places with positive people because you will get energy from them, but if you are gloomy, they will not be able to stay positive all the time.

So it is important to take care of yourself first, and when you have enough positive energy, you should listen to them and take care of them. Otherwise, they will suck away more and more of your positive energy, and you will become darker and darker too. That’s what I learned.



There are many people around me who are tanning themselves, wanting to get a tan. I, too, lay out my cape near them and just read a book. When it gets hot, I jump into the sea. That’s how I spend two hours.



Today’s waves were also very rough, with waves twice as high as I was coming in. I was playing with the waves, riding them and moving in the same direction, and sometimes I became a washing machine. I guess a little sand got into my eye, and it broke my contact lens and damaged my eye very badly.

I rushed back to the hostel to check my eye and found the torn contact lens. In other words, the sand had broken it. This was scary. But I am glad that I am safe.



Finally surfing! Today, in a smaller size!

Today, to my surprise, I was doing a lot of surfing and getting better at it, so my boss lent me a smaller surf to play with! I was so happy. He also lent me a new swimsuit because I am a very important client. I was really happy that he did that.

Then I went to the ocean. To my surprise, the waves today were very strong and swell from many different directions, as if they were against me. They didn’t head straight for me, but came from right to left because of the strong winds. So it was really hard to control. And since my surfboard was smaller, it was harder to keep my balance, so I fell a lot.

But that’s what’s really fun! I really like the story of falling over and over again, and failing.

I can feel that this is the time when I am challenging myself. This makes me really happy and happy.



I’m bathed in sunlight, so that’s a plus, and I have great energy. Sometimes my feet rub against my surfboard and I get chafed up, but I don’t mind that! Such pain is a natural part of surfing. I enjoy surfing with such various happenings.

When the waves are good, I can ride the best waves. But there are a lot of surf lesson people, and they really get in the way. I almost bumped into them many times and fell down. It’s really hard. But that’s no good because I’m not good at it and I can’t control it. I think I have to work hard for that.

Like that, I’m not working much right now, but I’m really happy to know that my surfing is improving day by day like this, and I’m really happy to have the energy of the sun and a nutritious breakfast.



Dinner was at a favorite restaurant

How many days in a row have you been going to a restaurant called Warung Java? I really can’t count the number of times I’ve been there. I’ve been going to Warung Java for so many days in a row that I really can’t count the number of times I’ve been there. Today, I ordered brown rice. Apparently, brawn rice seems to be the most nutritious. But I really love all the rice. Sometimes I pick up something different, thinking I’ll order something I didn’t order. Today, I’m eating that dinner again, very gratefully, thinking about the fun I had all day.



Then, after returning to the hostel, I went to Zin cafe for a coconut dessert.




I felt like I was craving sugar today, or maybe dessert. No, really. Incredibly delicious. And I end my day by writing this journal.